- photograph or artwork
- 4″ coaster substrate (available from D&D Stained Glass)
- 2″ x 2″ clear glass
- variety of scrap stained glass colors or ready made tiles
- No Days Mosaic Adhesive film
- scissors or razor
- standard heat gun or embossing heat tool
- long pair of tweezers (or other heat proof tool)
- black sanded grout
- latex gloves
- dust mask
- container for mixing water and grout
- glass cutters/running pliers/mosaic nippers (or 3/8″ or 3/4” pre-cut tiles)
- cork backing
- HoneyDoo Powerbond Glue
2 pieces of No Days Mosaic Adhesive: one that fits the 4” coaster
surface and another that is slightly larger than the photo.
the center of the coaster and outline where you’ll place your photo.
Lay down the larger square of No Days Mosaic Adhesive, your photo, the
smaller square of adhesive and put the clear glass on top.
Now, you need to cover the coaster with tiles.
To make your own tiles from scrap stained glass, it’s helpful to have a strip cutting system. The Morton Portable Glass Shop
makes a quick and easy job of cutting lots of small square tiles. Here,
I’m using a Toyo glass cutter to score strips of glass in one
direction, then rotating the glass a quarter of a turn and making scores
in a crosswise direction before breaking them apart with running
the tiles on the coaster, remembering to leave small gaps for the grout
lines. It’s not important that your lines are straight. In fact, it
adds a bit of interest if they’re not perfect! Also, you don’t need to
worry that all the tiles are in the exact spot that they’re supposed to
be, as you can move them into position while you’re heating.
your coaster is covered with tiles, begin heating using a standard heat
gun or embossing heat tool. To prevent your tiles from blowing off of
your coaster, hold the heat gun 6″-8″ above your project. As the
adhesive heats up, it will start to turn glossy and liquefy. You need to
continue to heat the tiles until the adhesive underneath them also
liquefies. You can see this happening under the clear pane of glass
over your photo.
While heating, you’ll need to press down on the clear glass to help
push out any air bubbles that get trapped under the glass and on top of
a pair of long tweezers or other heatproof tool, push gently on the
tiles to see if they move. If the tiles skid or stick, then the adhesive
under them is not fully heated. If the tiles glide as you push on them,
they have been heated thoroughly, & you can easily move them into
you’re finished heating, let the tiles cool for 5-7 minutes. Before
beginning to grout, check that all the tiles are fully adhered. If you
can pull on the tiles and they pop off, you’ll need to heat them longer.
a dust mask, mix a handful of black sanded grout in a cup with just a
bit of water. Stir the grout around with your fingers until it is
thoroughly mixed and about the consistency of peanut butter. Spread the
grout on top of your coaster, rubbing the grout across the tiles to
force the grout down into the gaps.
After you’ve got the grout in all of the spaces, stain the edges and underside of the coaster by rubbing the grout against them.
about 10 minutes for the grout to become hazy on top of the tiles.
Then, you can polish the tiles lightly with a paper towel or a bit of
To finish the backside of the coaster, cut some cork backing slightly smaller than your coaster. Smear some HoneyDoo Powerbond
glue in a thin layer across the back surface of your coaster, staying
at least 1/2″ from the edges. Press and hold the cork backing firmly
against the backside of the coaster. While the glue is drying, it will
expand slightly and fill in the gap.
After gluing, flip the coaster over to press the cork backing flat and let the glue dry for 2-3 hours.
Then, your coaster is ready for gifting!